If you are planning to install or set up 100 amp service panels or sub-panel wiring, then we highly recommend you consult with an experienced and licensed electrician. This is just a technical discussion on the 100 amp wire size you need for such installations. WARNING: This is not a user guide on how to wire the 100 amp service entrance or sub-panel. If you are just starting construction on a new home or if you are planning to extend the existing electrical system with a sub-panel, then you need to know the 100 amp wire size (or wire size for appropriate service or feeder wire). After that, we will see what wire size is suitable for 100-amp service panel or sub-panel wiring. In this guide, let us discuss the importance of wire and conductor sizes in electrical systems. The next logical discussion is regarding the 100 Amp Wire and what AWG wire size should we use for the 100-amp service entrance. So, it is often rated for at least 100 amps. While the circuits from the service panel are suitable for carrying 15 Amps or 20 Amps of current, the main service entrance must carry all the load in and out of the house. So, choosing a proper wire size as per the current it can carry is essential. Wire and cables are responsible for carrying the current in the circuit. If the service panel is the heart, then the wires and cables are the arteries and veins of the system. Using the service panel, we distribute the electricity all over the house by carefully designing the circuits. Ordinary circuit breakers have relatively slow tripping times that may not catch arcs.The main service panel or the circuit breaker panel is the heart of the residential electrical system. AFCIs detect in-line arcing and arcing between phases and between phase in neutral. They're now required for circuits in bedrooms and other critical areas in new houses, and as of 2008, they will be required throughout new homes. Ground-fault circuit interrupters (GFCIs) trip on an unbalance between line and neutral. Ordinary circuit breakers trip on gross faults. GFCI circuits for the kitchen and bath and wet locations with AFCI for the bedrooms. What was perfectly fine back in 1960 is unacceptable in 2013. And speaking of code you may be required to bring other parts of your wiring up to date also to pass an inspection. They don't take kindly to modifications not up to code. Insurance companys will drop you like a lead weight. You are of course going to get a permit from the town etc and an inspection when your completed, RIGHT? If not you open a huge can of problems if there is ever a fire or injury from your work. There are 3 breakers protecting the kitchen panel. Any one of them will shut down that panel. There are 5 breakers protecting that panel in the shed. Redundancy is a good thing when playing with electricity. All of my panels have their own main disconnect breakers as well as the breakers feeding them. What I did was ensure that I had a secondary panel close to the kitchen which is the most circuit heavy room in the house, and fed that panel from a 100 amp breaker in the main panel.Īlso in the secondary panel is a 60 amp breaker for the shed in the back yard with its own 100 amp panel. You should end up with at least 2-15 amp breakers and 2-100 amp breakers in the pony panel. Then from that pony panel, run to the the panel that you want to add with the correct size of wire. Use the proper size wire to hook up the pony panel and rerun the 2 circuits that you disconnected from there. Select 2 breakers from your full panel and replace them with the correct size for a 100 amp pony panel. What you are proposing runs a high risk of someone catching a severe case of dead! You need a disconnect and circuit protection at the source.
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